Hooded Eyes Makeup Chart: Step-by-Step Guide
Hooded eyes have a fold of skin that droops over the crease, making the lid space look smaller.
That means your eyeshadow can disappear and your liner can smear before you even leave the house.
I get it. It’s frustrating. This guide walks you through a full hooded eyes makeup chart from primer to mascara.
You’ll learn how to work with your eye shape, not against it. I’ll cover how to identify your eye type, step-by-step techniques for every look, and common mistakes and how to fix them.
Understanding Hooded Eyes
Knowing your eye shape is the first step to makeup that actually works for you.
Fully Hooded Eyes
The skin fold covers most or all of the lid when the eyes are open. The crease is hidden, so standard eyeshadow placement rarely works.
You need to apply color higher than the natural crease to keep it visible.
Partially Hooded Eyes
Only part of the lid is covered. This gives you a little more room to work with. Small tweaks like placing your crease color slightly higher can make a big difference without overhauling your whole routine.
Natural Hooded Eyes
These eyes have a subtle hood that’s easy to miss. Soft, matte shades and clean liner work best here. You don’t need heavy contouring, just smart placement.
Shape Hooded Eyes
Not all hooded eyes look the same. Some are round, some are almond-shaped, some turn down at the corners.
Each shape needs slight adjustments in where you place shadow and liner. Knowing your exact contour helps you copy techniques that actually fit your eyes.
Tools and Brushes Guide for Hooded Eyes
Having the right tools makes every technique easier and more precise.
- Blending Brush: A fluffy, dome-shaped brush is your best friend for hooded eyes. It blends shadow above the crease without spreading color too far down onto the lid.
- Flat Shader Brush: Use this to pack color precisely onto the visible lid area. A flat brush gives you control over exactly where the shadow lands.
- Small Pencil Brush: This is the one to reach for when doing a cut crease or adding depth to the outer corner. The pointed tip keeps things neat and defined.
- Angled Liner Brush: Great for tightlining and applying gel liner close to the lash line. It gives you a thin, controlled line without flooding the lid.
- Concealer Brush: A small, flat concealer brush is key for cleaning up cut crease edges and sharpening any shadow work. It makes the difference between a messy and a polished finish.
Step-by-Step Hooded Eyes Makeup Guide
Follow these steps to get defined, lifted eyes no matter your hood level.
Step 1: Prep and Prime
A good primer is non-negotiable for hooded eyes. It stops creasing and keeps your eyeshadow in place all day.
Use a matte eyeshadow primer like NYX HD Eye Primer or Urban Decay Primer Potion. Apply a thin layer from lash line to brow bone and let it set for 30 seconds before moving on.
Step 2: Base Shadow Application
This is where you create the illusion of more lid space.
Pick a neutral matte shade close to your skin tone. Apply it above your natural crease, not in it. This creates a fake crease that stays visible when your eyes are open. Blend upward, not outward, to keep the shape clean.
Step 3: Lid Highlight and Brightening
Lighter shades on the lid open up the eye and make it look more awake.
Use a light matte or soft satin shade on the visible lid area. Add a small pop of highlight to the inner corner. Avoid heavy shimmer all over as it can make the hood look puffier.
Step 4: Eyeliner Techniques for Hooded Eyes
Standard liner can disappear or smear on hooded eyes, so placement really matters here.
Tightlining adds definition without taking up lid space. Reverse eyeliner along the lower lash line creates a lifted effect. Keep any wing short and angled upward since long wings get cut off by the hood.
For downturned hooded eyes, angle the wing more steeply to counteract the droop.
Step 5: Mascara and Lash Enhancements
Lashes do a lot of the heavy lifting for hooded eyes.
Curl your lashes before applying mascara as this lifts the eye immediately. Use a lengthening mascara on upper lashes and a coat on lower lashes too.
Individual lashes on the outer corner add subtle drama without weight.
Step 6: Cut Crease Eyeshadow Hooded Eyes Makeup Chart
The cut crease technique creates a sharp divide that shows off the lid even when the hood is heavy.
Use a flat concealer brush to map a line above your natural crease. Apply a deeper shade in the outer corner and blend upward.
Press a medium matte shade onto the lid below the cut line. Clean up the edge with concealer for a sharp finish.
Best Products for Hooded Eyes Makeup
The right tools make the techniques work better and last longer.
Eyeshadow Palettes
Norvina by Anastasia Beverly Hills has a great range of mattes and transitions. Urban Decay Naked palettes offer neutral shades that work for everyday and evening looks.
Too Faced Natural Eyes covers soft, wearable tones for lighter looks.
Brushes
Zoeva blending brushes are fluffy and precise for seamless shadow work. Coastal Scents brushes are affordable and solid for everyday use.
Eyeliners and Mascaras
Stila Stay All Day liner stays put on the upper lash line without smearing. L’Oreal Voluminous Mascara and Too Faced Better Than Sex both build length and curl without clumping.
Common Mistakes to Avoid with Hooded Eyes
Small slip-ups can close off your eyes instead of opening them up.
- Thick liner on the top lid makes hooded eyes look smaller, so keep it thin or skip it
- Bright shimmer above the crease draws attention to the hood and makes it look heavier
- Over-blending past your natural eye shape loses definition and makes the look muddy
- Skipping primer means your shadow will crease into the hood within hours
- Placing dark shadow too low on the lid shrinks the eye instead of opening it up
Tips for Everyday
Your go-to look for a Tuesday morning shouldn’t look the same as a Saturday night out.
- Stick to soft matte neutrals in the crease for daytime and save deeper shades for evenings
- Tightline the upper waterline daily and switch to a small wing on nights out
- One coat of mascara works for day, layer it up or add individual lashes for evening
- Skip heavy liner during the day, a thin line or none at all keeps things fresh
- Try a smokey eye or cut crease with a bold lid color when you want more drama at night
Conclusion
Working with hooded eyes once felt impossible to me. Every tutorial seemed made for someone else’s eye shape.
But once I stopped fighting my natural shape and started working with it, everything clicked.
The hooded eyes makeup chart approach is what changed things. Placing color above the crease, keeping liner thin, and using the right primer are small shifts that give big results.
Try one technique at a time and see what works for your shape. Drop a comment below and tell me which step made the biggest difference for you.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I make fully hooded eyes appear bigger?
Apply eyeshadow above your natural crease to create a visible lid. Curl your lashes and highlight the inner corners to open up the eye.
Can I do a cut crease on partially hooded eyes?
Yes, and it works really well. Map your cut line slightly above the crease so it stays visible when your eyes are open.
What is the best eyeliner technique for downturned hooded eyes?
Use a mini wing angled upward at the outer corner. Tightlining also helps add definition without pulling the eye downward.
How do I prevent eyeshadow from creasing on hooded eyes?
Always use a matte primer before applying shadow. Set it with a thin layer of translucent powder for extra hold throughout the day.
Are shimmer shadows suitable for natural hooded eyes looks?
A small amount on the visible lid is fine. Avoid packing shimmer above the crease as it can highlight the hood rather than the lid.
